How to Make a Wooden Cutting Board in 6 Measures

This project is a great one for cooks who want a long-lasting butcher block cutting board that won't warp over time or move as they use it. An added bonus will be the curved notch at one end that makes it possible for you to scrape food from the cutting board directly into your bowl. Get additional details about what is Cutting Board Conditioner

Step 1: Determine around the design, dimensions and materials you'll be using for your cutting board. Assemble the necessary tools and components. Since you'll be using a number of power tools, be sure to wear safety glasses. Also, possess a face mask for any time you sand the cutting board.

Step 2: Assemble the butcher block. Cut 3 17-inch lengths of 2-inch thick clear maple on the miter saws. NOTE: These are straight cuts, not miter cuts.

Alternate the wood grain by flipping the middle board more than in order that its grain runs counter to the outer two boards. Apply wood glue for the edges on the board exactly where they'll join. Clamp them collectively though the glue dries.

Step 3: Smooth the butcher block. Use a belt sander to flatten the cutting board surface so there is certainly no noticeable ridge/transition from board to board. To do this, initial move the sander across the boards in a diagonal motion. After the transition is smooth, sand together with the grain along the length in the boards.

Switch to a random orbit sand and to progressively finer grades of sand paper till the surface from the cutting board has no discernible texture.

Trim one end of the board on a table saw. Place the board in a wooden cradle that holds the wood steady as you slide it in to the blade. Reduce only a thin strip off the end, to smooth the edges of the three boards you glued collectively. Establish which side with the board are going to be the top rated - normally the surface with the additional desirable wood grain.

Step 4: Notch the cutting board. Flip the board so the bottom side faces upward and draw a semicircle at the unfinished end with a compass and pencil.

Pass the board by means of the band saw and cut along the semicircle tracing. Add a drum sander for your drill press and smooth away any saw marks along the curved vertical edge in the circle.

Install a rabbeting bit with ball bearing guides in your router. The bit will cut a recess in to the bottom edge of the semicircle whilst leaving a collar of wood on the top surface. Turn the board bottom side up and route along the edge to kind the recess. The recess will enable a bowl of a particular dimension to slide into the board with no gaps and to catch the food.

Step 5: Add legs for the chopping block. Drill four legs sockets into the bottom with the cutting board, using a drill press. Do not drill via the board. Spot a socket at every corner on the flat end on the board, about 1/2 inch off the long as well as the short sides. Align the two sockets about 1/2 inch from the lengthy side of the board, but inset them about two inches in the short side to supply clearance for the semicircle and recess.

Coat the interior in the leg sockets with glue. Tap in short wooden dowels for the legs. Ensure that the dowels are identical in length and tap them into the very same depth so the board will stand levelly.

Step 6: Finish the surface. Add a mineral oil coating to shield the board from food and liquids. Sand the mineral oil into the board using No. 400 wet and dry sandpaper.