Many homeowners and companies in many cases are confused through the terminology along with the explanations given them with a burglar alarm representative. Sometimes what exactly is recommended could be a good system, however it may also be after dark budget products many owners or businesses can afford or want to pay.
The objective of this information is two-fold: first, to spell out the fundamental system and terms most generally in use today, and second, to generate clear there are different amounts of protection available that can translate into different investments with higher or lower degrees of overall protection to the home or property.
The conventional electronic security system today is composed of the following elements:
Control panel which processes the signals caused by the sensors, powers the sensors which require power, dials the monitoring central station to report alarms or events, powers the audible or visual devices, such as sirens and strobes, and provides battery back-up in case of AC power loss.
Sensors, including door/window sensors that need no power, lots of motion detectors, for example PIRs' or "dual" type detectors, glassbreak sensors, hold-up or panic switches, environmental sensors, for example water, CO2, or temperature, and of course, fire and heat detectors.
The audible and frequently visual devices that are used in the attic or under eaves in addition to within the dwelling.
The wire to connect the sensors and devices for the central control panel, or even in most all cases today, using wireless transmitter sensors into a receiver often incorporated into the control panel very few wires are needed (the AC transformer and call line still need to be "hard wired").
The labor and programming to make the pieces all come together.
The highest degree of security--and naturally the one which will cost the most--is full "perimeter" protection plus motion detector backup. What does this implies? It means every exterior door and window (a minimum of on a lawn floor) has a magnetic switch, either recessed or surface mount so the alarm should go off before the intruder gets inside your home. What's more, it means placing some sort of glassbreak detectors in both each room which includes glass or on every window itself so that, again, the alarm would disappear ahead of the intruder gets in.
If furthermore, motion detectors are strategically placed to ensure that in the unlikely event an intruder would somehow defeat a protected perimeter feeder point, and in actual fact gain entry inside premises, he would now face devices that seem to be for motion by typically measuring the backdrop temperature of the room from the temperature of your intruder (grounds for "passive infrared technology" or PIR; which is essentially a sort of specialized camera looking for rapid changes in temperatures measured against an identification temperature).
These more complete type systems will also be typically monitored by the central station for the monthly monitoring fee. Lastly, for all those concerned with possible line cuts (and yes, 99% of alarms systems which are monitored by the central station takes place telephone line that's often exposed along the side of the home or building) there are a selection of backup services available, from cellular to long term wireless to TCP/IP modules that go over the Internet to some special receiver at the central station.
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